In the pantheon of American sporting events, there are few experiences that can compare to an NFL Conference Championship game. I have been to my share of Super Bowls (4 total), but I had never been to a Conference Championship game. At the Super Bowl, I would estimate a maximum of 50% of the spectators are true-blue fans of the teams that are playing. The other 50% are corporate types or enthusiasts of the sport (such as myself) who do not have an affiliation with either of the teams that are playing and are at the game simply because they could get tickets.
At a Championship Game, an overwhelming majority of the spectators are there to root for the home team, since it is played in the home stadium of team with the better record, so you have a hometown energy that gets diluted at the neutrally-sited Super Bowl. You also have the issue of "the elements" which are avoided at Super Bowl sites, which are usually chosen for their domed structures or pleasantly predictable climates, such as Phoenix or San Diego.
Of all the places to play in late January, few are as forbidding as the storied Lambeau Field in Titletown, WI.
It is with the aforementioned background that I set out for Lambeau Field on Sunday with my brothers Chris and Mark, and our friend Geoff Morrell.
Monday, January 14, 2008. Chris purchases tickets on Ebay from season pass holder. They cost $300 a piece. I buy plane ticket on Midwestern Airlines from Baltimore Washington Airport (BWI) to Milwaukee WI for $550.
Sunday, January 20, 2008. Day of the Game.
7:30 AM I rouse, put on the following layers in anticipation of 1 degree temperature in Wisconsin.
1 skin-tight long underwear of some sort of lycra material
1 woolen loose-fitting long underwear
2 pairs wool socks
1 pair snowboarding pants as outer pant layer
1 underarmour long-sleeve mock turtleneck wicking base layer
1 Patagonia wooleen long-sleeve shirt
1 wool sweater
1 puffy down jacket to retain warmth
1 North Face cold-weather waterproof and windbreaking jacket as outer upper layer
1 pair gloves
1 balaclava
1 woolen hat
1 pair of Dad's 1970's duck boots, workmanlike
9:00 AM Properly attired, I leave my home in Washington, DC to reach BWI by car.
9:50 AM I park in Long Term B and jump on the Shuttle for the airport.
10:45 AM I board Midwest Airlines Flight 2801 bound for Milwaukee, WI. (see photo)
11:00 AM Take off, I read account of Kentucky River Coal Corporation. It tells the story of how a few enterprising families consolidated mining rights to large tracts of land in Kentucky in the late 1800's. It was only decades later, during the energy crisis of the 1970's, that the holdings would really yield any profits for the shareholders: the grandchildren and great-grandchildren of the founders. Having seen "There Will be Blood", the night before, I find it resonates with the theme of speculatory (is that a word?) American enterprises. Day-Lewis will win the Oscar, but I digress...
12 PM (Milwaukee time) I arrive, link up with Geoff at airport, who has flown from DC to Chicago and is driving a Toyota Highlander rental.
1 PM We link up with Mark and Chris, who arrive from Philadelphia and Boston, respectively and then head to Geoff's mother-in-law's place for a home-cooked lunch.
1:30 PM We feast on pork sandwiches, split pea soup and chocolate chip cookies, wash it down with a Miller Lite, Milwaukee style. Thanks to Mimi for the warm hospitality! There is nothing like a home-cooked meal when traveling on the road.
2 PM We set out northward for Lambeau.
4 PM, we arrive at field, find parking and put on rest of coldweather gear. Geoff is depicted here struggling to push his foot through this snowpants.
6 PM Kickoff. Seats are fantastic, 30 yard-line. It's cold, your breath emanates in steam-like bursts, extremities are vulnerable, but generally we are well-prepared. We notice that everyone around us really does speak with those Wisconsin accents. They are quick to welcome us.
The game progresses, Giants seem to be outplaying the Packers, who go 3-and-out on consecutive series. Coughlin is outcoaching his counterpart, who tries the same damn screen play and shies away from the run after Giants stuff Grant at the line a few times.
There is something mesmerizing about the panorama before my eyes, modern-day gladiators engaging in a game wherein the crowd is overwhelmingly pulling for one team to vanquish the visiting opponent. It is a sanctioned form of semi-violent conflict in which only one team can advance to the bigger stage. One thinks that if only nations and tribes resolved their conflicts on the playing fields of sport, the world would be a more peaceful place - just let your warriors fight it out clean and fair on the field.
9:30 PM Game over. After blowing a few key opportunities to seal a victory, the visiting Giants intercept Favre's pass in overtime and put the Packers out of their misery in front of a home crowd. Alas, the Favre v. Brady matchup that many around the country were hoping for is not to be. The upstart Giants win the Conference and secure their berth in the big dance, hoping to play spoiler to Pats' perfect season.
10 PM We get in car and head for Milwaukee.
12 AM We check into Hyatt in Downtown Milwaukee.
Monday, January 21, 2008.
6 AM. I rouse, shower, get dressed and am in hotel lobby by 6:25. I hop a cab, driver is on phone telling his friend about how his tank is on empty and is about to run out of gas. It's cold outside and my flight leaves at 7:30 AM, would suck to miss it.
6:50 AM. We arrive at airport, fare is $25, I give him $5 tip, $30 total.
7 AM Lines are insanely long in Milwaukee airport, I wait in line to do self check-in at kiosk, complete transaction by 7:10 AM. I stank in security line that runs a hundred yards deep.
7:23 AM I get through security, walk briskly to gate 53, almost half-a-mile away from security checkpoint.
7:29 AM I arrive at gate, departure is delayed until 7:45 AM
11 AM I arrive at BWI, nice day. Unfortunately, I am locked out of car. I call guys to help me get in, give them $5 tip and am on my way to DC.
12 PM I arrive in DC, trip completed.
Total Duration: 29 hours.
Total Cost: $1,000 (approximately).= 1 month's rent. Worth it? Yes.
Mark's Entry:
Giants ball, they are driving to take the lead late in the 4th qtr. It is 4th and short (and I was just minding my business having a great old time on the metal bench on a –23 degree winter night in Wisconsin with 72,491 other “friends”) and I just blurt out to the to sports fans around me “You GOTTA go for it!” - the Packer fan behind me (whose eyelashes were frozen from his breath ricocheting off his mask) punches me in the back and says “What are you A GIANTS FAN?!!?@#$%” - Busted. This is after we hugged and high-fived as Donald Driver sprinted down the sideline to score GB first TD of the night on a 90 yard bomb from the legend. I was guilty and could not turn around after that and exchange high-fives – I was no longer one of them – which was weird when NY missed a chip shot to win the game at the buzzer and everyone was going nuts – I just danced in the aisle keeping warm and avoiding my boy behind me – at this point Judas was looking like an All-Star.
Because we were prepared and the hand and feet warmers kicked in – it was not that bad and we were in attendance at the 2nd coldest game in GB Packer history. Part of the cultural experience.
Oh yeah – we purchased a Packers mini-football at Dicks on the way in (Chris got a green Favre Jersey, Geoff got a yellow Packers hat and I got a green Packers hat – which is why we fit in so well) and of course played catch and kick-off return going in and out of the stadium. Picture this – a couple thousand frozen and stunned Packers fans diligently and silently filing out of Lambeau only to see a couple of morons playing catch and having a good old time running into walls and dodging defenders (old geezers bundled up in Packer garb or hunting orange – take your pick) as they left the stadium.
On the ground less than 24 hours – that’s how we roll. Good times.
